Josef a o neill de caracena



(No Model.)

- J. ON. DE OARAGENALV DRESS WAIST.

No. 408,594.' Patented Aug. 6, 1889.

PL/PETERS. Pholc-l-Khognp'wr, Wuhingon. D. C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEFA ONEILL DE OARAOENA, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

DRESS-WAIST.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 408,594, dated August 6, 1889.

Application filed January 19, 1889. $eria1 No. 296,803. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, J OSEFA ONEILL DE CARAOENA, a resident of the city, 'county, and State of New York, have'invented a new and useful Improved Waist; and I do hereby declare that the followingis a full and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, making a part of this specification.

My invention relates to the waists of ladies outer garmentssuch as dresses, sacks, jackets, &c.and has for its object to greatly reduce the amount of material, time, and labor required in making them, and consequently the cost thereof.

In making the waists of ladies garments close-fitting in the front and back it has heretofore been customary to cut out twelve distinct pieces of material of suitable forms viz., two front pieces, two back pieces, four under-arm gores, and two pieces for each sleeve, requiring for their union nineteen connecting seamsviz.,two side seams, one back or front center seam, two shoulder-seams, four under-arm gore-seams, four bust-dart seams,two connection seams of sleeves to body, and four sleeve-seams.

By my invention the waist is made complete with but seven seams, saving about sixty per cent. of time and labor in sewing and from thirty to forty per cent. of material in cutting out.

It consists of a dress-waist each half of which is formed solely of a front and back of one piece and each having substantially the special configuration hereinafter particularly described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a View in perspective of the front and one side of a ladys basque made from my improved single pattern, one of the sleeves being removed; Fig. 2, a similar view of the same from the opposite side. Fig. 3 is aplan of the two pieces of which the waist is constructed when opened out, illustrating the form thereof; and Fig. 4, a plan view of the single piece of which one of the sleeves is formed.

A A, Fig. 3, re present the two pieces of material which, when united, as in Figs. 1 and 2, form the waist, and B, Fig. 4, represents the sin gle, piece of material for each sleeve, which is to be united to the waist in the customary manner, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The two waist-pieces are precisely alike in their dimensions and outlines, and hence where the cloth is reversible may both be cut at the same time from superimposed pieces of the fabric, thereby saving time, labor, and material in the operation.

The pattern for each piece is formed in two lengths or and b, diverging from a central point at an angle more or less obtuse, and a line 0 d, biseeting said angle, determines the center of the band to connect the front and back of the waist over each shoulder. In drawing said pattern this shoulder-line c (l is first drawn, and a line 6 e is drawn to intersect it at a right angle. The terminal point at c of the line 0 d is determined by the distance between the neck and the outer end of the shoulder-blade in the measurement of the person to be fitted. The points 6 and e, terminating the line 6 c, are determined by the intersection with said line of the arcs e k e described from the point 0 as acenter, each with a radius equal to the. measure of the person to be fitted taken in front from a point, as c, at the intersection of the neck and middle of the shoulder down to the waist over the bust, and which I shall designate as the bustmeasure. A semicircle, whose arc is equal to one-half the measured circumference of the neck, is then drawn from a pointf on an extension of the line 0 01 so as to intersect the point c. From said center point f, or from a point a little beyond it in line with 0 cl, lines are drawn to each end of the line 6 6. These lines, intersecting at g g the are described from the point f, determine the neck-line g c g. A second semicircle 2' d 11' is described from a center point h, in line with c d beyond the point d, with a radius equal to that of the measured diameter of the arm-hole required in the garment, so that the described are shall intersect the line 0 d at or a little within the said point d. The distance of the point 70 from the point e on the are e 1' in the front length a of the waist-piece is made equal to three-tenths of the waist-measure, and the distanee of the point 70 from the point e on the corresponding are e z" for the back length b is made equal to two-tenths of the waist-measme. The point It is connected with theproximate end vi of the arms-eye semicircle 'i d i on the front length a of the waist-piece by a line 7t i, curving slightly outward from a straight course to form a slight outward bend as it approaches the terminal point i of the arms-eye curve, and the point 7;, 011 the back length is connected with the point 'i at the proximate end of said curve id 2" by a line it 'i, curving very slightly inward as it leaves the point it and thence extending directly to the point 2".

The end 9 of the neck-curve g c g is connected with the waist-line at e on the front length a by an outwardly-curved line g e, whose measured length equals that of the line 0 c, while the opposite end g of the neckcurve is connected with the waist-line at e on the back length I) by a straight line g e. The line e e is extended at each end to a distance equal to the length desired in the basque below the waist-line, with a slight outward curve 6 Z at the front and a counterpart slight inward curve 6 Z at the back, and the lines 1' 7t and t" 7; are correspondingly extended to m and m, but with a sharp outward bend, determined by the fullness desired in the lower part or skirt of the basque, the points 6 m and 2' n2 being connected by outwardly-curved lines Z M Z on, as shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings.

In cutting out the pattern a suitable margin is allowed for the seams, in the usual in {1/11 1] e1.

The two waist-pieees a I), out out from the pattern formed by the outerlines connecting, as described, the several points 0 g e Z m 7; 2' and t" 7; m Z c g c, as shown in Fig. 3,are united to form the waist orbasque by simply stitching together the corresponding edges 9 e Z of the two pieces, if the waist is to open at the back, or the edges g c I if it is to open at the front, and by stitching together the opposite edges 2' 70 m and e" 7a m of each piece to close the arm-holes and form the side or under-arm seams.

The sleeves, to be united in the customary manner to the waist thus formed, may each be made of a single piece B, cut for a closefitting sleeve in the general form shown in Fig. 4 viz., with the opposite edges (which are of a length equal to the length of the sleeve) out each with a corresponding inward curve 71 o 'n' 0 to about midway the length of the sleeve, and thence upon the one side in nearly a straight line 0 p, and upon the other with an outward curve 0 p to the end 1) of the sleeve, said opposite edges 01 p and n 13 being stitched together to complete the sleeve. 4

I claim as my in vention- A dress-waist each half of which is formed solely of a front and back of one piece, the two pieces having the same configuration and each consisting of two lengths a and Z), of varying widths, diverging at an angle more or less obtuse from opposite neck and arm curves g c g and i (Z i, the wider front length to having ontwardly-curved side lines g e and 1' 7o, converging slightly to the Waist-line, and the narrower or back length I) having straight side lines g e and i 76', converging slightly to the waist-line, and both widening with outwardly-curved lines beyond the waist-line, substantially in the manner and for the pun pose herein set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed in y n ame to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOSEFA OMEILL DE CARACENA.

\Vitnesses:

A. N. JESBERA, F. CARACENA SICARDO. 

